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As the water warms and approaches 55
degrees, black and white crappie gather in the shallows and usually stay tight
to some type of structure. Structure as far as crappie is concerned is not a
building, but can be anything from submerged logs and bushes, old tires, dock
and bridge pilings and most commonly in our area old submerged Christmas trees.
Crappie are not the smartest of fish and the seasoned angler knows that
if he caught crappie last year at a certain creek mouth he can rest assured that
when the conditions are similar that he will find crappie in the same spot
again. A sunny day last year does not mean that a sunny day this spring will
produce as many fish; the conditions I refer to are water conditions.
If fish were caught last year with the river rising, the feeder creek
somewhat clear, a full moon and warming temperatures, it is wise to be back at
the same location and time rain or shine this year. If you were a smart angler
you might have kept a fishing “log” and wrote down the water temperature.
If all other conditions are the same but the water temperature is five
degrees warmer or colder, fishing may not be as good or it could actually be
better. Keeping a log and carrying a thermometer can improve the chances of
reliably catching crappie year after year.
For beginners, catching crappie is probably easier that any fish other than
catching bream or possibly a catfish and trout pay pond. Crappie feed primarily
on minnows and aquatic insects. Several dozen live minnows and a bucket, or soft
plastic jigs, a pole of any sort, a package of split shot and a couple of floats
and you have all that is needed to catch these aggressive fish.
The guy at the fishing counter at the local superstore will know what
size hooks and jigs are needed and as far as color of jigs, get several in
yellow, lime green, blue and white. If you go to a store that sells live bait,
just ask for “crappie minnows” and the attendant will give you the right size.
Beginners, don’t be foolish and buy only a few minnows, hooks or jigs.
The seasoned crappie angler knows that because the fish hide out near structure
that many hooks, jigs and floats will get snagged on the very same log or bush
that the fish are hiding in.
Crappie can be fairly stubborn about the depth that they are feeding at.
Be willing to experiment. If the water is about ten feet deep, start with the
bait about four or five feet from the bobber and try several spots near where
you are. If no fish are caught, go a foot or so deeper and repeat the process.
For best results create your crappie brush farms in three
different depth locations. Mark your locations to sink brush in the shallows,
mid depth locations, and deeper water. I would suggest you build and sink your
artificial crappie structure in areas that are not accessed easily by other
fisherman. Make sure you drop your brush when no fisherman are watching. If your
honey hole gets a lot of fishing pressure the crappie may move out to other
fishing locations. I always look for places that would not interest casual
boaters. You are probably asking why? Well by using three different locations
you create crappie honey holes for different parts of the fishing season. I you
can find a spot where the bottom starts deep and gradually goes to shallows you
can build your three locations inline. Just mark each location with a GPS point,
that way you can come back again and again without wasting any precious fishing
time. If you have young children this is an excellent way to get them interested
in fishing. Kids are impatient, but if you take them to a honey hole where the
action is almost instant, you will nurture their interest in a wonderful sport. |
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